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Conservationists are trying to preserve the natural heritage of Eastern Ontario
CONROY MARSH, NEAR BANCROFT, ONT.Here, where the granite hills of
the Madawaska Highlands rise humpbacked, like great terrestrial whales, streamers
of early morning mist cling to the topmost forests, and each hill fades softly
from the one in front until the farthest vanishes in the still-sleepy, blue-gray
distance.
I stand in my canoe, the better to see over the reeds and marsh grass. From
somewhere nearby, a duck makes a chortling sound. The sun begins to creep
across the marsh and a heron rises laboriously to move to a more favoured
spot. From inland, an owl gives one last hoot. Another day begins. The dragonflies
are already combing the marsh grass for insects, and near the shore I can
see, just barely, the ears of a deer above the grasses as it travels the
shoreline. A distance away, there's a quick half-howl. It's so short, I can't
tell if it is a dog, a wolf or a coyote. Of course, I imagine a wolf, and
smile.
This is where the vision of A2A begins. Here in the wild. This is the habitat
that A2A, the Algonquin to Adirondack Conservation Association, wants to
see connected, all the way from Algonquin Park in Ontario to Adirondack Park
in New York state, an area, including the two parks, that's the size of New
Brunswick.
In the formal wording of its vision, A2A says it sees the connected habitat
as "a home place that provides for the well-being of both its wild and
its human inhabitants." Forever.
This duality, this way of looking at humans as part of nature just
like squirrels and loons and snakes and moose, like trees and trout lilies,
ferns and fish, salamanders, spiders, and red-shouldered hawks has
Hans Herrmann excited. He is NAFTA's top official for nature, the head of
the conservation and biodiversity program for the Commission for Environmental
Co-operation under the North American Free Trade Agreement.
"They're changing the paradigm," he says. They're changing the
way humans see themselves. They're talking about humans in nature instead
of seeing humans as somehow divorced and separate, somehow incontestably
superior in every way.
"If A2A succeeds, people will begin to appreciate nature in ways they
can't even imagine now." It will change profoundly the way they make
decisions and the way they do things, he says.
In its membership, A2A tries to mirror the community at large. On its board
are farmers, urbanites, environmental organizations, trappers, First Nations,
cottagers, hunters, business people, park officials, county officials, provincial
officials, hobby farmers and conservation authority officials representatives
so diverse that you might expect co-operation to be difficult. But that doesn't
seem to be the case.
One board member says it's because respect is central to the organization respect
among members and respect for landowners. Another explanation may be that
A2A operates on consensus, which creates no winners and losers in decision-making,
unlike situations where decisions are made by majority vote.
Members view themselves as a grassroots organization that is aimed at encouraging
landowners to see their properties as parts of a broader whole.
A2A talks of filling in gaps and of maintaining links. It speaks in terms
of watersheds, and connected habitat, and broad landscapes. And it works
with landowners to identify what will enhance habitat and, at the same time,
advance each landowner's personal objectives.
There's an example of how A2A operates near the town of Toledo, northwest
of Brockville. It's what A2A calls the Irish Lake to Bellamy Lake connection,
an effort to restore habitat between the two lakes in a 100-square-kilometre
area. There are 50 property owners in the area.
Through the Leeds County Stewardship Council, which is represented on A2A's
board, satellite photos of the area were obtained and ideas were developed
on paper to show how the habitat could be improved.
Consultants were then hired to visit landowners and, as Gary Nielsen, co-ordinator
for the stewardship council says, "to sit down at the kitchen table
with landowners" to see if there would be a way to help them achieve
their goals and, at the same time, restore habitat.
Of the 50 landowners, 21 have been contacted so far, and only two have opted
not to participate. The total cost to A2A has been $24,000.
Elsewhere, there are property owners who are placing protective easements
on their lands. Others are donating land to parks or land trusts. Still others
are simply determined to take good care of their properties. One farmer is
planting trees, another person has asked Ministry of Natural Resources (MNR)
officials to help him protect wild ginseng, an endangered plant, on his land.
Yet another, who doesn't hunt, is working with Ducks Unlimited to restore
a wetland, and there are groups working to rehabilitate shorelines along
rivers and lakes.
This is not to say that there is an A2A fever sweeping the land. A2A is
a young organization still in the building stage. A strategic plan has not
been approved, although drafting is nearly completed, and the website at
http://www.a2alink.org is primitive and unfinished.
I'm told that the strategic plan will call for developing a fundraising
capacity, hiring administrative staff and establishing branch organizations
through the huge A2A region. But the fact is that A2A still moves at the
slower pace characteristic of volunteer organizations.
Nevertheless, things are happening, and if I'm taking the pulse of the area
correctly, inspiration is astir.
Conroy Marsh is on the York River, which flows out of the southern tip of
Algonquin Park. The river meanders south from the park, passes through Bancroft,
eventually turns northeast into the marsh where it is joined by the Little
Mississippi River, and then empties into what then becomes the mighty Madawaska
River.
Following the York offers a snapshot of the northern part of the Frontenac
Arch. The Arch is the most southerly finger of the Canadian Shield that runs
from Algonquin Park down to the St. Lawrence River where it forms the Thousand
Islands. The snapshot shows cottages, farms, urban development, homes spreading
along rural roads, lumbering, trapping and the wild. Not wilderness, mind
you, but the wild and, back from the roads, lots of it.
To the south, there are progressively more roads, more development and less
wildness. But there still are lands that are wild all the way to the St.
Lawrence River. When we talk about saving for future generations what we
have enjoyed in our lifetimes, these are the lands we are talking about.
This is where wildlife travels, and it is lush with life. Along the York
River, time and again I stopped paddling to stare at the tumult of plant
life on the shoreline. Different varieties of ferns and grasses and vines
and leafy plants, more than I could identify, pushing and shoving and demanding
a place to grow.
These lands, south to the St. Lawrence, also are home to 21 species at risk,
including peregrine falcons, black rat snakes, blue ash trees, broad beech
ferns, stinkpot turtles, wild ginseng and five-lined skinks.
However, "home," in the sense of a place to stay rooted from birth
to death, is not the right word to use when talking about animals. They're
born to travel. Even small animals such as field mice have been tracked covering
several kilometres over a two-week period. All have a deep genetic urge to
wander. It's nature's way of protecting against inbreeding. It's also a way
of promoting evolution, as the adventurous explore the limits of a range
where survival means adapting.
There are examples of single animals travelling between the two parks. A
moose collared in Adirondack Park, and nicknamed Alice, eventually died in
Algonquin Park. A lynx, on a similar journey, ended up in Ottawa.
But the first scientific evidence of large-scale movement by a species is
now being assembled in Peterborough by MNR and Trent University. The species
being studied is the fisher, a member of the marten family. It weighs anywhere
from 2 kilograms to 5.5 kilograms and can grow to a length of 1.2 metres,
with its tail being a third of its length.
Its fur is highly prized by trappers, and by 1950 trapping and habitat destruction
had eliminated it everywhere in southern Ontario south of the French River,
except for Algonquin Park. Now, they're back, and everyone assumed they had
expanded out of the park. But no. They came from Adirondack Park.
"If A2A succeeds, people will begin to appreciate
nature in ways they can't even imagine now"
Hans Herrmann, NAFTA official
"We were really surprised finding that they came from Adirondack," says
Jeff Bowman, research scientist with MNR's wildlife research and development
section in Peterborough and an adjunct professor at Trent. "It totally
threw everything on its head."
Through DNA testing of fishers that have been trapped, it's possible to
trace their origin, he says. Radio collars are also being attached to track
movements. Enough work has been done to confirm that fishers all the way
from the Bruce Peninsula to the Quebec border originated in Adirondack Park.
In addition, the radio collars give an idea of how quickly and how far they
can travel. Last year in January, a juvenile trapped in Algonquin Park was
found to have been born the previous April in the Bruce Peninsula. And an
adult female, also trapped in the park, had come from Manitoulin Island.
So, you may ask, why is it important that fishers have surged out of Adirondack
Park to repopulate southern Ontario? Well, let me tell you a personal story.
We live on a farm on the Canadian Shield northeast of Gananoque. Six years
ago, we were suffering from a plague of porcupines. On any given day, I could
spot at least a dozen in a short walk near the house. With unbridled appetite,
they were girdling trees of every description, and once a porcupine does
that, stripping the bark all the way around the trunk, the tree dies.
My partner, Emily Conger, and I sat down to discuss what we should do. We
ended up deciding that I would have to borrow a rifle and start shooting
them. They were like clear-cutters gone berserk.
In fact, we had many such discussions, all reaching the same conclusion,
but somehow I never was able to drag myself to the neighbour's and borrow
that damned rifle.
Then, the fishers came back, and overnight they brought the porcupines under
control. Fishers, like their cousins the weasel, are awesome hunters, and
they are the main predator of porcupines.
A favourite tactic of fishers is to chase a porcupine up a tree and onto
a branch. The fisher then climbs out on the branch above the porcupine, and
drops down to face it on the same branch. The porcupine, now nose to nose
with the fisher, is defenceless, with all its quills facing the wrong way,
and the fisher makes short work of it.
The point of all this is that predators are indicators of the health of
an ecosystem. In our case, the forest surrounding our farm was suffering
badly because a specific predator had vanished, and there was nothing to
control porcupines. The ecosystem was out of balance. Thank God for the habitat
connection to Adirondack Park.
What has surprised me in the course of interviewing people for this series
of columns, is the desire of landowners to participate. Some don't articulate
their reasons very well. It may be only, "It feels like the right thing
to do." Or, "I remember what it was like when I was a boy, and
I want my grandchildren to have what I did." Or, "I just like the
environment."
Or, as one person, who owns 245 hectares between two lakes with 1.5 kilometres
of shoreline on each lake, says, "I don't want to see everything developed
until it looks like Coney Island."
There have always been people such as these, of course, but based on observations
from almost nine years of writing this column, the number seems to be increasing
rapidly. Maybe it's because so much is going wrong, such as global warming,
bad air and ozone depletion, that people want to create their own good news
for a change.
Maybe it's because, as Norm Ruttan says, A2A gives people the opportunity
to look beyond the borders of their own lands.
Ruttan is a retired park superintendent with Parks Canada. He is executive
director of the Frontenac Arch-Thousand Islands Biosphere Reserve, created
under the United Nations two years ago. The reserve extends in a rough triangle
from Gananoque in the west, to Westport in the north and Brockville in the
east. There's an interlocking relationship between A2A and the biosphere
reserve, with A2A being a member of the reserve, and Ruttan being a member
of A2A's board.
A2A invites people to take a broader perspective, Ruttan says. It asks them
to take personal responsibility. For a long time, he says, landowners relinquished
the responsibility for looking after landscapes to governments. But, he says,
lapsing into the language of a park naturalist, "A queen ant can never
accomplish what worker ants can do."
Think of it as neighbours helping neighbours, Ruttan says, as a return to
acknowledging that nothing lives in isolation, including people. Clean water,
and adequate water, depend on property owners throughout a watershed protecting
trees and wetlands and shorelines, he says. Clean air depends on healthy
forests.
When I look back to the history of settlement in this country, and the awesome
obstacles that climate and landscape posed, what I see as the main tool for
survival was a spirit of co-operation. I wonder if his phrase "neighbours
helping neighbours" is hitting a resonant chord with the people with
whom I've been talking even now, so long after we've passed the days
of wilderness living.
For me, the St. Lawrence River seems an enormous barrier, as something to
cross. It took a long time to twig to the fact that this isn't how wildlife
sees it. To an animal, the river must look like any number of lakes where
it has gone wandering.
The difference in viewpoint is important. If you see the river as a barrier
and something to get across, you tend to look for a path or a corridor. Something
to run through to get to the other side.
Imagine what wildlife see from the shore by the Thousand Islands. They can't
see how wide the river is. All they can see are some islands not very far
away, not much different from what they would see on Charleston Lake, Baptiste
Lake, Big Rideau Lake, or any number of lakes on the Canadian Shield. They
can walk to the islands over the ice in winter, or swim there in summer.
They can wander from one to the other, and before they know it, they're on
the American side of the river.
The same goes for the land north of the river. The animals don't head south
with the thought of getting to the St. Lawrence and crossing the river. They
simply wander and they tend to follow ridges and ravines that run northeast
to southwest, almost parallel to the river. They'll meander over a ridge,
or follow a creek or wetland that cuts across. They'll gradually drift north
or south; they don't head in those directions as if on a mission.
What this means is that it can take a long time for wildlife to travel between
parks. Sometimes it can take generations of meandering. They can be born,
breed and die while still making their way north or south.
It's for this reason that A2A is focusing on such a wide swath of land between
the parks. It wants to persuade landowners that wildlife needs the full breadth
of habitat. It needs breeding room as well as wandering room.
The real barrier to movement is Highway 401 with its four lanes of constant
traffic, and its concrete wall down the middle. That poses an enormous challenge
to wildlife. |